the route
Your first week in Japan: Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto, Nara and Osaka
Sora Nakamura is a pen name. Routes are drafted with AI assistance from the sources named on each stop, and read before they go out. How we work →

Photo: Jalan Net News, from the article
Seven days on the line most first visits take, west from Tokyo to Osaka, built from our day routes: three days in Tokyo, a day in the mountains of Hakone that ends on the Shinkansen to Kyoto, a Kyoto day, a day in Nara that ends in Osaka, and an Osaka day. The stops below are each day's anchors; the full days, with the meals, are on the routes: Tokyo in three days, Kyoto in a day, Nara and Osaka in a day.
Hakone runs on Odakyu's Hakone Freepass: ¥7,100 for two days from Shinjuku, and ¥1,200 more for a Romancecar seat to Hakone-Yumoto. It covers the mountain train, the cable car, the ropeway, the buses and the pirate ship on Lake Ashi (Odakyu, checked 25 September 2026). From Odawara the Hikari to Kyoto is ¥12,100 on JR Central's smartEX, reserved seat, regular season. Send the suitcase ahead to Kyoto that morning and the day is a pleasure; carry it and it is not.
A Japan Rail Pass does not pay on this week. Every ride priced on this page comes to ¥22,997, less than half the price of the 7-day pass, and only one of them, the ¥12,100 Shinkansen, is JR at all. The pass costs ¥50,000 on its official website, and overseas agencies charge ¥53,000 for purchases from 1 October 2026 (JR Group notice, 9 April 2026).
The rides priced here come to ¥22,997 a person and the entry fees to ¥8,300, with ¥1,200 more for lunch at Kasuga; the other meals and the Kyoto buses are on the day routes, and nights are not included. Plan around two closures: the Tokyo National Museum on Mondays, the palace gardens on Mondays and Fridays. Flying home from Kansai Airport, the Rapi:t from Namba is ¥1,410 on Nankai's digital ticket.
- Where
- Tokyo to Osaka
- How long
- 7 days
- Stops
- 17
- Distance
- 491 km · 2.1 km on foot
- On the clock
- about 6 h a day
- Pace
- steady
- Season
- all
- Mood
- first-time · city · eating
Times are the editor’s plan, not a timetable. ≈ marks our own rough estimate; check the train times before you go.
what it costs
Per person, one adult. Each place’s figure is what its source printed, and the stop names the source and the date; the fares are the operators’ own published figures. Meals and rides with no printed figure are not in the total, and a figure printed more than a year ago says so. Converted at the European Central Bank reference rate of 2026-09-25, not a bank rate.
the day
- Day 1
- 観Tokyo National Museum 東京国立博物館
The national museum in Ueno Park. The ¥1,000 ticket is for the collection galleries. At busy times the museum itself recommends buying online: the queue at the main-gate ticket window can pass thirty minutes.
Tokyo National Museum · 150 min¥1,000per personas printed by Tokyo National Museum September 25checked 2026-09-25Hours9:30–17:00, Fridays and Saturdays to 20:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing; closed Mondays (open on a Monday holiday, closed the next weekday) · tnm.jp, checked 25 Sep 2026
Source ↗Open in maps ↗Plan BClosed on Mondays: start the week on another day, or swap day 1 and day 2.
- Metro≈25 min · Ginza line, Ueno to Asakusa · ¥178
- 観Senso-ji 浅草寺
Tokyo's great temple in Asakusa. The main hall keeps its own hours; come in by the Kaminarimon gate.
Senso-ji · 90 minchecked 2026-09-25HoursMain hall 6:00–17:00 (from 6:30, October to March) · senso-ji.jp, checked 25 Sep 2026
Source ↗Open in maps ↗ - Day 2
- Metro≈35 min · Ginza line to Omotesando, then a walk to the shrine · ¥209
- 観Meiji Jingu 明治神宮
The shrine is open every day and entry is free. Its gates follow the sun, so the hours change month by month.
Meiji Jingu · 90 minFreeper Meiji Jingu September 25checked 2026-09-25HoursSunrise to sunset: 5:20–17:20 in September, 5:40–16:40 in October, 6:10–16:10 in November · meijijingu.or.jp, checked 25 Sep 2026
Source ↗Open in maps ↗ - Day 3
- Walk≈25 min · to the Otemon gate
- 観Imperial Palace East Gardens 皇居東御苑
The palace's East Gardens are open to the public with no ticket and no booking.
Imperial Household Agency · 90 minFreeper Imperial Household Agency September 25checked 2026-09-25Hours9:00–17:00 in September, 9:00–16:30 in October, 9:00–16:00 November to February, last entry 30 minutes before; closed Mondays and Fridays · kunaicho.go.jp, checked 25 Sep 2026
Source ↗Open in maps ↗Plan BClosed on Mondays and Fridays: then give the morning to Ginza, as on day 3 of the Tokyo route.
- Day 4
- Train≈150 min · Odakyu Romancecar, Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto (about 80 minutes), then the mountain train, the cable car and the ropeway, on the Hakone Freepass: ¥7,100 from Shinjuku plus ¥1,200 for the Romancecar seat · ¥8,300
- 観Owakudani 大涌谷
The highest station of the Hakone Ropeway, over a valley of steam that was once called Hell Valley; on a clear day Mount Fuji and Lake Ashi are in view. Next to the station they sell black eggs, boiled in the hot spring until the shell turns black: four for ¥500 in Jalan's listing.
Jalan · 60 minHoursRopeway station 9:00–17:00, stopped in bad weather; the egg shop 9:00–16:30 · Jalan, as of 31 Jul 2025
Source ↗Open in maps ↗ - Boat≈90 min · the ropeway down to Togendai (about 30 minutes), then the pirate ship across Lake Ashi to Moto-Hakone, both on the pass, and a short walk
- 観Hakone Shrine 箱根神社
You arrive by the pirate ship: three of them cross Lake Ashi, two modelled on old French and British flagships, and the pass covers the crossing (without it Jalan lists ¥1,200 one way). The shrine was founded in 757, up an approach of cedars more than six hundred years old, and from the Moto-Hakone shore the view takes in Mount Fuji, the lake and the shrine's torii. Entry is free; the treasure hall is ¥500.
Jalan · 60 minFreeper Jalan July 31, 2025HoursOpen to visit at all hours; amulet office 8:30–17:00, treasure hall 9:00–16:00 · Jalan, as of 31 Jul 2025 · may have changed
Source ↗Open in maps ↗ - Train≈225 min · the bus down to Odawara on the Freepass, then the Tokaido Shinkansen, a Hikari, to Kyoto · ¥12,100
- 観Kyoto Station 京都駅
The end of day four. The Hikari from Odawara is ¥12,100 on JR Central's smartEX, reserved seat, regular season; the table gives ¥200 off in the quiet seasons and up to ¥400 more in the busiest. Tomorrow starts from here.
JR Central · 15 minSource ↗Open in maps ↗ - Day 5
- Bus≈45 min · Kyoto City Bus from the station
- 観Ryoan-ji 龍安寺
The rock garden: white sand and fifteen stones, set so that from no single place can you see all fifteen at once.
京都市 · Jalan Net News · 60 min¥600per personas printed by Jalan September 3Hours8:00–17:00 March to November, 8:30–16:30 December to February · Jalan, as of 3 Sep 2026
The place →Open in maps ↗
- Bus≈60 min · Kyoto City Bus, by way of the Okazaki and Gion stops on the Kyoto route
- 観Kiyomizu-dera 清水寺
The wooden stage juts from the main hall over the city, built without nails; walk on to the Otowa waterfall, which gave the temple its name.
京都市 · Jalan Net News · 90 min¥500per personas printed by Jalan September 3Hours6:00–18:00; the closing time changes with the season · Jalan, as of 3 Sep 2026
The place →Open in maps ↗ - Day 6
- Train≈60 min · Kintetsu Kyoto line, Kyoto to Kintetsu-Nara, then on foot · ¥760
- 観Todai-ji 東大寺
The temple founded at Emperor Shomu's wish in the Nara period, below Mount Wakakusa. The Great Buddha inside is 14.98 metres tall; the hall around it has been rebuilt twice, keeping nearly its first height and depth. Each hall charges its own entry, cash only.
Todai-ji · 60 min¥800per personas printed by Todai-ji September 25checked 2026-09-25HoursGreat Buddha Hall 7:30–17:30 April to October, 8:00–17:00 November to March; open every day unless a ceremony or an emergency closes it · todaiji.or.jp, checked 25 Sep 2026
Source ↗Open in maps ↗ - Walk≈15 min · 0.7 km
- 観Kasuga Taisha 春日大社
A World Heritage shrine beside Nara Park, its halls first built in 768; the main sanctuary is a National Treasure. Lanterns have been given to the shrine since the Heian period, and about 3,000 are lit on the evening of Setsubun and on 14 and 15 August. The grounds are free; the inner sanctuary is ¥700.
Jalan · 60 minFreeper Jalan March 16Hours6:30–17:30 March to October, 7:00–17:00 November to February · Jalan, as of 16 Mar 2026
Source ↗Open in maps ↗ - Walk≈5 min
- 食Kasuga Ninaijaya 春日大社 春日荷茶屋
The teahouse inside the shrine, named after the tea sellers who carried their stalls on shoulder poles through the grounds in the late Edo period. Its manyo-gayu is rice porridge in white miso on Hokkaido kelp stock, made with Nara's Hinohikari rice and a topping that changes every month: ¥1,200.
Jalan · 50 min¥1,200per personas printed by Jalan March 16Hours10:30–16:00 (last order); closes on irregular days · Jalan, as of 16 Mar 2026
Source ↗Open in maps ↗ - Walk≈30 min · 1.4 km
- 観Naramachi ならまち
Nara's old town, spread over the former grounds of Gango-ji: townhouses from the Edo period to the early Showa years, many now small museums, restaurants and shops. Deer often walk the streets here too.
Jalan · 75 minHoursA town district; the shops keep their own hours · Jalan, as of 16 Mar 2026
Source ↗Open in maps ↗ - Train≈50 min · Kintetsu Nara line, Kintetsu-Nara to Osaka-Namba, then on foot · ¥680
- 観Dotonbori 道頓堀
Minami's canal street: theatres in the Edo period, restaurants now, under giant signs of crabs, octopus and dumplings. The famous billboards face Ebisubashi bridge, and the Tombori River Walk follows the water below.
Jalan · 60 minHoursA public street; the shops keep their own hours · Jalan, as of 4 Mar 2026
Source ↗Open in maps ↗ - Day 7
- Metro≈40 min · Midosuji line from Namba to Hommachi, the Chuo line to Tanimachi 4-chome, then through the park · ¥240
- 観Osaka Castle Main Tower 大阪城天守閣
The keep standing now is the third, rebuilt in 1931, and it is a museum of Hideyoshi and the castle's history, with a lookout 50 metres up over the city. It is about twenty minutes on foot from Osakajokoen station through the park. The castle sells tickets in advance online.
Jalan · 90 min¥1,200per personas printed by Jalan March 4Hours9:00–18:00, last entry 17:30; closed 28 December to 1 January · Jalan, as of 4 Mar 2026
Source ↗Open in maps ↗ - Metro≈45 min · on foot to Tanimachi 4-chome, the Chuo line to Hommachi, the Midosuji line to Dobutsuen-mae · ¥240
- 観Tsutenkaku 通天閣
Shinsekai's tower, 108 metres tall: the first was built in 1912, this one in 1956. Since April 2026 an adult ticket is ¥1,500 and every ticket comes with an entry time. The tower suggests buying online the day before, because tickets can sell out in the evening.
Tsutenkaku · 60 min¥1,500per personas printed by Tsutenkaku September 25checked 2026-09-25Hours9:00–21:45, last entry 21:15 · tsutenkaku.co.jp, checked 25 Sep 2026
Source ↗Open in maps ↗ - Metro≈45 min · Midosuji line from Dobutsuen-mae to Hommachi, the Chuo line to Osakako, then eight minutes on foot · ¥290
- 観Kaiyukan 海遊館
The Pacific Rim aquarium: about 620 species, seen on a spiral walk down from the eighth floor around one great tank, where the whale shark swims. From 17:00 the lights and music turn to the night sea. The price changes with the day: Jalan lists an adult from ¥2,700, and the aquarium's own calendar gives each day's figure.
Kaiyukan · 135 min¥2,700per personas printed by Jalan March 4checked 2026-09-25HoursUsually 10:00–20:00, last entry an hour before closing; the hours change by the day · Jalan, as of 4 Mar 2026; kaiyukan.com, checked 25 Sep 2026
Source ↗Open in maps ↗
if it is shut
- 1. Tokyo National Museum 東京国立博物館
Closed on Mondays: start the week on another day, or swap day 1 and day 2.
- 4. Imperial Palace East Gardens 皇居東御苑
Closed on Mondays and Fridays: then give the morning to Ginza, as on day 3 of the Tokyo route.
music for the way
on the wire
On the wire this week
- 【京都】1日で定番スポットを巡る!エリア別の観光モデルコースを紹介(マップつき)<2026> Jalan Net News
the editor
Sora Nakamura is the pen name the routes on Day by Day Japan are written under, drafted with AI assistance and read before they go out. Every fare, fee and opening time on a route comes from whoever printed it, the operator, the place itself or a Japanese magazine or guide, and the page says which, with the date. Sora writes routes, not rankings, and would rather send you to a place that has kept its regulars for fifty years than to anything called a hidden gem.